Two Unforgettable Nights at the Fairmont Empress

My love affair with Victoria's Fairmont Empress Hotel began when I stepped off a cruise ship over a decade ago. At first I worshiped from afar, daydreaming of strolling her wainscoted halls as a welcomed guest instead of a day-tripping tourist. I will admit that I was an easy conquest. The manicured grounds and ivy-covered walls whispered to an imagination shaped by Jane Austen, the Bronte sisters and Frances Hodgson Burnett's The Secret Garden.

The affair deepened when I succumbed to the allure of afternoon tea, a refined, once in a lifetime indulgence that quickly became a twice-yearly staple. The elegant tea room with strawberries, cucumber sandwiches, currant scones with clotted cream and tray of other dainties will have you secretly adding "Duchess" to your name by the time you finish your first cup.

Whether you're extending a cruise vacation or visiting Victoria for the weekend, a stay at the Fairmont Empress is an unforgettable experience.

Day 1 - Check in, enjoy the hotel and grounds, dinner at the Bengal Lounge

Time your check-in for just after lunch. Unpack slowly while you enjoy the little luxuries in your room. Take a few hours to stroll though the hotel and grounds, soaking in the unhurried, welcoming ambiance. Peek into the tea room, make any necessary dining or spa reservations and browse the hotel's excellent shops for tea goods, jewelry, Italian fashions and works by local artists.

For dinner, enjoy live jazz and the curry buffet at the Bengal Lounge. If you're in the mood for a nightcap, sample the late night sweets and honor bar in the concierge lounge.

Day 2 - Spa, shopping and afternoon tea

Start your morning with Mozart and a luxurious breakfast in the concierge lounge. You'll find scrumptious pastries, fresh fruit, bagels and lox, oatmeal, hot items, tea, coffee and juices. Let yourself linger while you watch ships and float planes enter Victoria's picturesque Inner Harbor. Schedule any spa services for mid-morning on this day.

When you're ready, ask the concierge for a walking map of the downtown area. Stroll along the harbor past the nearby Parliament buildings. Sample the shops and restaurants on Government Street. Visit St. Andrew's Cathedral or spend a few hours in the Royal BC Museum.

Tip: If a souvenir for a child is on your list, check out the museum's two shops for a wide selection of nature-themed gifts.

Return to the hotel for afternoon tea at 4 pm. It's a pricey splurge, but well worth it for the pure hedonism. The tea is quite filling, so plan on a relaxing, light supper in the concierge lounge.

Day 3 - Leisurely morning before check-out

Sleep in. Roll over, sink back into the down comforter and dense feather pillows while you revel in knowing that you don't have to get up yet. Order room service for breakfast. Check out feeling utterly relaxed, thoroughly pampered and already planning your next visit.

The Fairmont Empress Hotel

721 Government Street

Victoria, British Columbia

Canada

V8W 1W5

Phone: 1.866.540.4429

Website: http://www.fairmont.com/empress

Rates: From $165 / night

Best for: Anglophiles, romantic weekend, girl getaway, cruise extender

Highly recommended: Fairmont Gold Room (Concierge level)

Best time to visit: Any time, but the grounds are at their loveliest in spring and summer.