On the Trail of New Zealand's Best Wine

When it comes to traveling to New Zealand, wine may not be the first thing on your mind. There are the fjords and glaciers to the south, the stunningly beautiful Bay of Islands in the far north, and plenty to see and do in between. But if you've got the heart of a true oenophile, you've just got to spend some time tasting wine, for this New World producer consistently offers up some the world's best.

Most foreign visitors think of only one varietal, and its corresponding wine region. That's Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough district, located at the north end of the country's South Island. That famed area is justifiably renowned, it is true, and is definitely worth a visit to taste that world-renowned white varietal.

But there's much more to the island nation's vast world of wine than that uniquely crisp and grassy quaff, a fact that is proven every November at the annual Air New Zealand Wine Awards. In 2010, the awards attracted over 1600 entries from New Zealand's ten wine growing regions, with big winners coming not only from the Marlborough, but also from the Hawke's Bay, Waipara and Central Otago regions.

And if there's only time for one wine stop in your New Zealand itinerary, then the Hawke's Bay, that stunningly beautiful region situated on the North Island's west coast, has to be it. It's a quick flight from Auckland and an ideal spot to begin a lesson in New Zealand's fine wines, especially if reds are your passion.

Getting There

Begin your journey from the United States by catching an Air New Zealand nonstop overnight flight from Los Angeles or San Francisco to Auckland, and book a Business Class seat, which magically transforms into a comfy, fully flat bed. If that is too pricey and beyond your reach, at least score one of their Skycoach seats, which is actually your own three-seat row in Economy class that converts into a small bed. It's worth it, for the overnight flight will take you 13 hours, as you cross the International Date Line and lose a day in the process. Don't worry, though. You'll get the day back when you return!

Start in Auckland with a night at the luxurious Langham Hotel in the heart of the city, making sure to stay in one of their Club rooms or suites. That gives you free access to their fabulous Langham Club, where complementary lavish breakfasts, afternoon teas, evening cocktails and conviviality all day await.

On to the Hawke's Bay

Once you've spent a day or two checking out the city's beautiful harbor, excellent restaurants and the boutiques around High Street, head out for the airport and take a quick, one-hour puddle jump flight from Auckland to Napier (also on Air New Zealand), in the heart of the Hawke's Bay. Hop into a rental car and make your way to one of the region's fabulous lodges, where luxury accommodations and fine dining await. Just remember to "think left," as the Kiwis drive on the opposite side of the road from the United States.

Try staying a few nights at the Farm at Cape Kidnappers, the stunning, award-winning five-star resort perched on the cliffs of the bay that offers incredible vistas, a world-class golf course, truly fine dining, a full-service spa and your own beautifully appointed little cottage. The Farm is a ways out from the Hawke's Bay central wine district, but is definitely worth the trip.

Or stay in the heart of the district at Greenhill Lodge, the venerable Hawke's Bay mansion that has been transformed into a charming lodge near Hastings. You'll be treated like one of the family there, fed in a grand style and given a personalized wine education by Greenhill's knowledgeable experts. They are on hand to offer special tastings in the late afternoons, and will also happily guide you on a tour of the region.

Time for Wine

From either beautiful accommodation, however, you can easily blaze your own trail to some of the most acclaimed wineries in New Zealand, including the 2008 and 2007 NZ Wine Awards Top Champion winners. The region is relatively small, so visiting a number of wineries in a day or two is simple -- and delicious.

Church Road Reserve Syrah 2007 took the 2008 prize, while Trinity Hill "Homage" Syrah 2006 scored the 2007 honor. Both of those are shining examples of the famed Gimblett Gravels area of Hawke's Bay, where astonishingly wonderful reds, including Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir are being produced. They don't stop there, either, as delicious white varietals like Chardonnay and Viognier are also produced in the area. A visit to Trinity Hill's pleasant tasting room yields a wide range of wines; make sure to sip the 2007 Gimblett Gravels "Arneis," a soft, drinkable white with notes of pear and the 2004 Wairarapa Riesling, a smoky, citrus-infused wine. And the "Homage" as well, of course.

Nearby is Craggy Range Winery, another of the Hawke's Bay's finest producers, which offers up some of the region's top single-vineyard wines in a splendid setting. Experience their legendary "Le Sol," an amazing Gimblett Gravels Shiraz, while gazing out at the view of the craggy mountain range close by. The 2006 is peppery, earthy and floral, believe it or not, and drinks more like a Pinot Noir than a big, bruising Shiraz. In fact, all of the Craggy Range Shiraz bottlings -- the 2005 "Sophia" and "Te Kahu" in particular -- are balanced, fruit-forward wines, with notes of plum and other red stone fruits that burst onto the palate, never knocking you over like some too-big Shirazes are known to do.

Have a quick lunch at Craggy Range's patio restaurant, or head on to Sileni Estates, where they will put on a really gorgeous spread for you, pairing lovely cheeses, meats and other treats with their vast range of wines, including the top-notch "The Triangle" 2006 Merlot and "The Plateau" 2007, a black-cherry-popping Pinot Noir that pairs perfectly with their luncheon choices.

On a smaller scale in the Hawke's Bay is Alpha Domus, the family-run winery whose red blends have been turning heads both at home and abroad. Visit their pretty little winery and try the 2002 "The Aviator," a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It's a big, still-tannic blend with red berry flavors melded with chocolate and spice, a wine to savor with a filet mignon or rib-eye steak.

And don't miss a stop at Te Awa, where some luscious local Chardonnays await. Sample the "Windmill" 2006 in particular, an oaky, yummy wine with flavors of pear and apricot. Te Awa Winery recently won the prestigious 2010 Champion Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot/Cabernet Blend at the Air New Zealand Awards for its "Left Field" Merlot Malbec 2009, so make sure to quaff some of that, too (if there's any left!)

No tasting trip to the Hawke's Bay would be complete without a stop at Te Mata, arguably one of the oldest wineries in New Zealand, with vineyards planted in 1892. Today, Te Mata's best wines still come from those same vines. Try the famed "Coleraine" if you can, a dense, dark Cabernet blend that quickly sells out every year, or the "Awatea," another of their highly respected red blends. Both often evoke delicious flavors of black cherry and chocolate, regardless of the vintage.

If your Hawke's Bay wine experience leaves you thirsty for more, consider adding in a little time for the Waipara and Central Otago districts in the South Island. Waipara is close to Christchurch, while the Central Otago is easily reached from Queenstown. Both are also fantastic areas for wine, with the Pinot Noirs from the Otago beginning to take center stage as some of the world's best. Happily, even if there's only time for one wine-tasting segment during your trip, you'll still find all of New Zealand's finest wines everywhere you go, in restaurants, bars and bottle shops from north to south. Enjoy!