Like out of a dream, the ruins of a once mighty civilization lie strewn across a dry dusty plain punctuated by glimmering golden stupas and the chocolaty waters of the Irrawaddy River.
Welcome to Bagan. Located in central Myanmar, formerly Burma, about 300 miles north of Yangon and 90 miles southwest of Mandalay, Bagan is an unassuming town with a glorious past. From the 11th to 13th century, Bagan's Buddhist kings transformed the city into a wondrous place: ornate palaces, Buddhist temples, elaborate irrigation systems, libraries, schools, and parks.
For two centuries the Bagan Kingdom controlled large areas of Southeast Asia, but that control ebbed and flowed due to competition with rival kingdoms like the Shan in Myanmar and the Khmer in Cambodia. By the end of the 13th century it was a new rival, the Mongols, that finally defeated Bagan, ending centuries of influence in the region.
Today, Bagan is a lively riverside town. Though I was there more than a decade ago, I still vividly remember three things: interacting with the friendly locals, watching life unfold on and along the banks of the Irrawaddy River, and, of course, wandering lazily and endlessly among the hundreds of temples, stupas, and pagodas. Bagan is a wonderful place to visit.
Take a look at the detailed information below. In addition to my own opinions and observations, I include updated travel and pricing information from WikiTravel Bagan and Myanmar Travel Information 2009. And I recommend getting a copy of Lonely Planet's Myanmar (Country Guide) 2009.
Essentials
Entrance Fee. Foreign tourists to Bagan are required to purchase a $10 tourist pass. There isn't a separate archaeological zone in Bagan like the one at Angkor in Cambodia (in 2009, a 5-day pass cost $100). In Bagan, you pay just one $10 fee for access to the entire town.
Money. When I arrived in Bagan in August 1999, tourists were required to exchange a minimum of $300 for the local currency, kyat. Also, the official exchange rate was much lower than the unofficial rate offered on the "black market". Refer to the Lonely Planet guide for updated information.
Getting Around
To/From Bagan. I recommend taking a bus from Yangon to Mandalay ($8 one way). Spend a few days in Mandalay, a very cool city, and then take a boat down from Mandalay down to Bagan ($25 one way). To get back to Yangon you can catch a bus from Bagan ($7).
Bicycle. It's the best way to see the temples because most of them are connected by miles and miles of dirt paths and narrow roads. I highly recommend bringing along a spare tire tube or two because flat tires are common. During my week in Bagan, I had a least a half dozen flats. There are bicycle repair shops all over the place, but you'll find that changing your own tire is much more convenient.
On Foot. Walking around the waterfront, markets, and downtown area is easy and comfortable. However, visiting the temples on foot can be a hot, dusty, and dirty experience.
Hot Air Balloon. This wasn't available when I was there in 1999, but according to WikiTravel, it is now. If it's anything like hot air ballooning over the temples at Angkor, I strongly recommend.
Must See
Ananda Temple. The beauty of this temple can be appreciated from both a distance-it's gold-leafed stupa shinning in the midday sun, and up close. On the exterior at the base of the temple are clay tiles with colorful and detailed illustrations of the previous lives of the historical Buddha. Inside the temple are four statues of the Buddha covered in gold leaf.
Mya Zedi Pagoda. The Mya Zedi Stone is the star attraction here. The oldest stone inscription in Myanmar, it details the life of an 11th century ruler, King Kyanzittha. It is often called the "Rosetta Stone of Myanmar" because the four different languages inscribed on the stone are translations of the same story; thus allowing modern archaeologists to decipher one of the languages on the inscription, Pyu, from the other already-known languages on the stone.
Sulamani Temple. This grand temple was rebuilt in 1994, so it looks like a modern "retro" building. However, you'll appreciate what remains of the original architectural and artistic elements, especially the impressive frescoes inside the temple. Although none of the frescoes are complete, the fragments that are still attached to the temple walls contain colorful drawings of people, flora and fauna of the past. It's fun trying to figure out what the scenes mean.
Around Bagan
Mount Popa. I'm willing to bet the mortgage that you've never seen a place like this. Situated atop a volcanic plug (a giant bulbous rock) is a grand Nat Temple. Followers believe that all 37 Nats, or spirit guardians, reside in the temple. Often shrouded in mist and accessible only by a staircase that wraps around the rock, the entire scene is like something out of a Tolkien novel.
Cultural Notes
To Westerners, Burmese people look very exotic. Men are typically dressed in a sarong-like garment, or longyi, and the women often adorn their faces with a white pasty substance, called thanaka.
The food in Myanmar combines elements of Indian, Thai and Chinese cuisines. Two of the most popular dishes are mohinga (fish broth with rice, ginger, and various veggies) and lahpet thohk (pickled tea leaf salad). You'll find makeshift food stalls on just about every street corner. The food there is usually cheap and tasty.
It's also worth noting that UNESCO, the United Nation's cultural heritage protection division, has not designated Bagan or any of its temples as World Heritage Sites. This is because many of the ancient structures in Bagan have been rebuilt without using traditional techniques and materials. As an archaeologist, I was a bit disappointed by this, but it doesn't change the fact that Bagan and its temples are definitely worth the price of admission and even a trip half way around the world just to see them.
List of Sources
WikiTravel. Bagan. WikiTravel.
Myanmar Travel Information 2009. Myanmar Travel Information 2009: Bagan. Myanmar Travel Information 2009.
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