Monday, August 11, 2014

3 European Cities With Picturesque Wall Walks

In past centuries, many European cities built formidable walls as a matter of survival. Unless there was a natural barrier such as a river or a cliff, the only way to keep enemies at bay was to build a wall. Over the years, cities outgrew their walls -- some mined their walls for building materials, and some tore down their walls to make way for boulevards. A wall does little to protect the city from modern artillery, so there was no longer a compelling reason to keep them in good repair, and many cities simply let the walls deteriorate. Remnants of walls still adorn many European cities, but only a few cities have fully intact walls circling the historic center. Walking the walls provides a different perspective on the scenery and history of the area. I walk the walls whenever I can. Here are my top three city walls for walking.


Dubrovnik, Croatia

My favorite wall surrounds the beautiful old town of Dubrovnik. The walls were originally constructed in the 13th century and strengthened over the next few centuries. They suffered damage during the recent Balkan War but have been fully restored. Clinging to steep cliffs abutting the Adriatic Sea on one side and climbing high above the city on the other, the walls connect two major towers and several fortifications to provide 1.5 miles of dramatic views. From the Mincĕta Tower located at the highest point, orange-tiled roofs stretch across the city and sparkle against the intense blue of the sea. On the Adriatic side, the St. Ivan Fortress stands guard over the picturesque city harbor.

The walls are open during daylight hours, but times vary by season. I recommend that you check the exact hours when you arrive in Dubrovnik. To avoid congestion, go early in the day. There is a small fee to enter the walls, and you pay the fee at one of the three stairway entrances. Because of the occasional narrow passages and the frequent large crowds, it is necessary to wander the walls in a clockwise direction (arrows point the way).

Derry, Northern Ireland

Derry boasts the only complete city wall remaining in Ireland. Twenty feet tall and completely encircling the historic center of the city, the walls are a powerful reminder of the turbulent past of this area. The walls were constructed in the early 17th century and withstood several sieges over the years. More recently, they were patrolled by British soldiers guarding the city during the tense period known as the Troubles. The mile-long ramble around the walls leads to fine views over the old town center and the valley of the River Foyle. To me, the most interesting area is the western side away from the river. Here one can look over Bogside, the Catholic Republican neighborhood. Violent confrontations in this neighborhood in the early 1970s between the Republicans and British troops led to more than 30 years of violence. Large murals painted on the sides of apartment buildings passionately memorialize the Bogside residents' perception of the bloody confrontations.

There are several access stairs around the wall, so you can cover as much or as little of the walk as you want. The walls are open from dusk to dawn and are free of charge.

Carcassonne, France

The fortified old town of Carcassonne, La Cité, is a medieval wonderland of towers, turrets, and a chateau that gives me the sense that I am walking through the 13th century. More than 50 towers are spread along 2 miles of walls. The walls are massive and majestic with views over the narrow streets. One can easily imagine how stately knights and strolling troubadours would have roamed these lanes in past centuries.

The walls are always open, and there is no entry fee. The best access is just across the drawbridge Porte Narbonnaise, the main entrance to La Cité.

Walking the walls of these legendary cities not only provides stunning views, it also gives me the opportunity to connect with history. I am amazed at the work that went into building them and the hostilities that they witnessed. Whenever I visit them, I am fascinated by the historical significance and the architectural grandeur of these walls.

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