My name is Garrett McNamara.
I live to ride the biggest waves in the world.
When you fall off a big wave,
you get pounded under water
for ... what seems like eternity.
And you get pushed down so deep
until your eardrums are about to pop
and sometimes you get
in so many different directions
that you're dizzy, you don't even know which way is up.
Under the water, there is darkness ...
and there is light.
Darkness is the end,
light is life.
I'm never afraid,
as long as I see a glimpse of light,
I know I will be safe.
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